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-- L i v e b a i t f i s h i n g --
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| Q 1. | ||
| Is it possible to keep bait shrimp alive for a certain period of time, and if so, would they survive in fresh water? Is it possible to ship live shrimp by plane? |
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| Q 2. | ||
| I would like any information relative to the care of bait shrimp, such as storing, breeding, proper handling, etc., and after they are caught. |
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| Q 3. | ||
| In the vicinity of the Great Lakes we used to be able to buy what was called a mudminnow for bait. These would live for weeks under a house when put in a bucket with nothing but mud. Wouldn't these same minnows do nicely for bass, trout, bream and other fresh water fish in Florida waters? Are there any restrictions against importing and using them in Florida waters? |
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| Q 4. | ||
| Where can I obtain information on raising bait fishes? |
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| Q 5. | ||
| Do you know of a substitute for seawater which I can use to keep bait shrimp alive in areas where there is no easy access to seawater? |
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| Q 6. | ||
| As a child and young man in Virginia and North Carolina, I used a minnow, known as a mummichog, as bait when fishing in the ocean for trout, weakfish, and blues. Does the minnow inhabit the Florida waters? |
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| Q 7. | ||
| We are losing with a fungus growth many of the shiners which we keep for bait. Can you help us to solve this problem? |
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| Q 8. | ||
| How can I prevent loss of live mullet? I carry them in my car in a tank for live bait but many of them are dead on arrival, apparently due to severe cuts and abrasions when they are dashed against the sides of the tank. |
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| Q 9. | ||
| I read with interest the article "Bait from Vending Machines" in the November, 1958, issue of Sea Frontiers. We are carrying out transhipment of live fish in plastic bags by rail and air involving journeys of up to two days, and frequently experience mortality caused by toxic effects of waste matter of the fish. I shall be grateful if you can give us information about the chemical used to combat this. |
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| Q 10. | ||
| I am trying to keep live shrimp for bait. Would you please send me information on their care and feeding? I have experienced some difficulty with the shrimp eating each other. |
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| Q 11. | ||
| I am interested in shipping fiddler crabs north for bait. How should I do this? |
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| Q 12. | ||
| What is the secret for keeping sand fleas alive in captivity, even for short periods of twenty-four to forty-eight hours? We like to use them for bait but seem unable to maintain them for more than a few hours. |
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| Q 13. | ||
| Can you give me information on the care of shrimp which are kept in live bait tanks? |
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| Q 14. | ||
| I would like to keep saltwater bait shrimp in a tank on a regular basis. Can you provide information on the proper care and feeding of these animals? |
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| Q 15. | ||
| Where can I obtain information for using eels as bait? |
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| Q&A 1. | Is it possible to keep bait shrimp alive for a certain period of time, and if so, would they survive in fresh water? Is it possible to ship live shrimp by plane? Ft. Myers, Florida |
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| The commercial bait and food shrimp (Penaeus sp.) of the Florida coast are rather delicate in captivity and special care must be given to them in order to keep them alive. They will not live in fresh water. In areas of clean salt water they may be successfully kept in pens of fine mesh hardware cloth with sand in the bottom so that they may bury themselves during the day. Heating, overcrowding, and allowing food or other debris to remain in the pens, account for high mortalities among shrimp. In concrete or wooden shore tanks it is necessary to provide clean, running seawater or simple aeration, otherwise stagnation will occur. Feeding every other day of cut mullet, shrimp, oysters, or barnacles will usually maintain captive shrimp. To prevent pollution it is extremely important to remove any excess food from the pen or tank after feeding. Live shrimp could probably be shipped successfully by plane in water filled cans, but some mortality should be expected and the operation would be fairly expensive. |
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| Q&A 2. | I would like any information relative to the care of bait shrimp, such as storing, breeding, proper handling, etc., and after they are caught. Steenhatchee, Florida |
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| The requirements for handling bait shrimp are as follows: The shrimp must be in condition when transferred to the holding tanks or pens. They must not be handled any more than necessary, and the water should be clean and uncontaminated. It is best to pump water directly from the ocean through the shrimp tank. If this is not possible, then the water should be changed frequently as is convenient and should be aerated to keep it well supplied with oxygen. Strict care should be taken to see that there is no copper or brass anywhere in the tanks or the pipes supplying the salt water to them. This is important since small quantities of copper going into solution with the seawater are sufficient to kill the shrimp. The tanks should be made of some material that will not contaminate the water - wooden or glass tanks are best. Concrete tanks should be coated with asphaltum paint to waterproof them. Such tanks should be thoroughly soaked and flushed to make sure that any soluble material in the paint or tank that will contaminate the water is removed. Floating boxes in water where there is a moderate flow are the best. The temperature is an important factor. In the northern part of Florida where the white shrimp are caught it is best not to allow the temperature to exceed 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The optimum temperature is between 50 degrees and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Elsewhere where the pinks are caught, particularly in southern Florida, the temperature may be allowed to go as high as 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Since uneaten food fouls the water, it is advisable not to feed bait shrimp. Some dealers do feed their shrimp, however, using chopped up barnacles, fish, shrimp and similar foods. If no water circulation is used in the tanks, three shrimp per cubic foot may be held for a considerable time. With circulation this figure can be increased to 10. For short holding periods the numbers per cubic foot can be increased considerably. More details may be obtained by writing The Marine Laboratory, University of Miami, Coral Gables 34, Florida, and requesting The Live Bait Shrimp Fishery of the Northeast Coast of Florida by Donald de Sylva. This publication is free. |
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| Q&A 3. | In the vicinity of the Great Lakes we used to be able to buy what was called a mudminnow for bait. These would live for weeks under a house when put in a bucket with nothing but mud. Wouldn't these same minnows do nicely for bass, trout, bream and other fresh water fish in Florida waters? Are there any restrictions against importing and using them in Florida waters? West Palm Beach, Florida |
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| The mudminnow (Umbra limi) is found from Quebec to Minnesota and south to the Ohio River valley, and the eastern mudminnow (Umbra pygmaea) is found in lowland streams and swamps coastwise from Long Island to the Neuse River in central North Carolina. This indicates that they would probably not live well in the southeastern United States, perhaps because of prolonged warm temperatures. However, they might thrive satisfactorily, even if they were unable to reproduce. If this were the case, they could be shipped to Florida for bait. They might even be successfully introduced into Florida, although the introduction of non-native animals is a dangerous business. The non-native carp, the English sparrow, and starling were supposedly introduced on the assumption they would be desirable, but this has not turned out to be so. Since the bait business is growing rapidly, perhaps a study of the mudminnow will provide necessary information about this importation of carp, goldfish, and young bass as bait, but not of mudminnows. |
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| Q&A 4. | Where can I obtain information on raising bait fishes? Atlanta, Georgia |
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| An excellent booklet entitled "Raising Bait Fishes" is available for 45 cents from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington 25, DC. Ask them to send you Circular 35. The text covers the design of suitable rearing ponds, feeding and handling the fish and other information. |
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| Q&A 5. | Do you know of a substitute for seawater which I can use to keep bait shrimp alive in areas where there is no easy access to seawater? Lantana, Florida |
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| So far as we know, there is no completely satisfactory substitute for seawater. Some bait dealers use filtered seawater which has been brought inland by tank truck. This has proved satisfactory when care has been taken to keep the water properly filtered. "Artificial sea water" is prepared by adding various salts to fresh water, but it only approximates the composition of real seawater. |
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| Q&A 6. | As a child and young man in Virginia and North Carolina, I used a minnow, known as a mummichog, as bait when fishing in the ocean for trout, weakfish, and blues. Does the minnow inhabit the Florida waters? Ft. Pierce, Florida |
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| The mummichog (Fundulus heteroclitus) occurs in Florida along the northeastern coast, from just south of the St. John's River entrance northward. A related species (F. grandis), which closely resembles the mummichog is abundant all along the coast of Florida. It is common in the Ft. Pierce area in cut-off tide pools. Unlike the mummichog, F. grandis does not enter water of low salinity very often, so it will be found right at the beach. It should prove to be as useful as the mummichog as a bait species. |
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| Q&A 7. | We are losing with a fungus growth many of the shiners which we keep for bait. Can you help us to solve this problem? Ft. Pierce, Florida |
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| There are many possible causes of "fungus growth" of which you speak. Without actually seeing the fish, it is difficult to suggest chemical treatment. However, fungus is a symptom of prior fish damage either by rough handling or as a result of parasite infection. There are numerous protozoan parasites which infect the fin, gill, and body regions of fish, and a few bacteria are particularly severe in the mouth region and around the gills. The fungus of the mouth introduced by bacterial infection is called a "cotton mouth" and is most often spread by the presence of rotten food in the tanks. A similar condition may be brought about by head bruises if the fish are in light colored tanks where they become frightened easily and ram the tank walls, thus bruising the head tissue. We suggest that you buy only healthy "shiners." Place them in darkened tanks in a shady location and avoid unnecessary handling. DO not overfeed and be sure your tanks are kept clean. This means a thorough scrubbing with a stiff brush once a week. Avoid temperature extremes; they tend to weaken fish. Do not overcrowd. Fifty 2-inch "shiners" per twenty gallons of standing aerated water is a good holding rate for one week periods. Pond storage is best for longer periods. If you detect sulphur odor in your tanks, try to change the source of water. Winter is a time of protozoan infection among pond bait fish. The trouble should decrease as the weather warms. |
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| Q&A 8. | How can I prevent loss of live mullet? I carry them in my car in a tank for live bait but many of them are dead on arrival, apparently due to severe cuts and abrasions when they are dashed against the sides of the tank. Hollywood, Florida |
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| There are three things you can do which will eliminate injury sustained by the fish in bumping the tank sides. First, avoid lifting the live car from the water if at all possible. Fish flopping about in a hard box out of water several times a day are certain to sustain serious physical damage. Second, design a bag of small nylon mesh (1/8 to 1/4") that will hang from the inside of the box without touching the sides. This will cushion the blows, as frightened fish dash about during dipping and handling. Finally, pad the underside of the top of the live car with burlap or other soft material to prevent head injuries when the fish jump. You will lose some fish under the best conditions, but the above suggestions may hold down your losses. |
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| Q&A 9. | I read with interest the article "Bait from Vending Machines" in the November, 1958, issue of Sea Frontiers. We are carrying out transhipment of live fish in plastic bags by rail and air involving journeys of up to two days, and frequently experience mortality caused by toxic effects of waste matter of the fish. I shall be grateful if you can give us information about the chemical used to combat this. Bombay, India |
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| The live bait business in this country is highly competitive, and new developments, such as the one you describe, are usually guarded secrets. However, there are references in the literature, mainly in The Progressive Fish Culturist of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, to the problem you face. In Vol. 19, No. 4, for October, 1957, the following information is contained: "On the basis of.... experiments, the following recommendations are made for fish-shipping procedure: 1. Use of pure oxygen in a plastic bag such as is commonly employed in the exotic-fish trade. One atmosphere of oxygen forming about 75 per cent of the container size; the remaining 25 per cent consisting of water, fish and other constituents. 2. A layer of bone charcoal at the bottom; about one pound per four liters of water. 3. A concentration of not more than 1 gram of fish to 13 cubic centimeters of water. A lesser concentration, perhaps 1 gram to 20 cubic centimeters of water, is recommended to allow for a safety factor. 4. About 1 grain of sodium amytal to 4 liters of water. 5. It is also suggested that the fish be starved, commencing one day before shipment, to lessen metabolic discharges." The article also suggests that trial packs be made for each species of fish to be shipped, since the chemical may be toxic for some. Apparently this method is effective for smaller fishes, such as Tilapia mossambica, for periods up to seventy hours. Bone charcoal has been used in combination with diabasic sodium phosphate. The latter, used as a buffer, reduces the effects of carbon dioxide while the charcoal absorbs the metabolic wastes. You might experiment with this combination, if you have not already done so, although the narcotizing agent and bone charcoal seem to be sufficient in the minds of the above authors. |
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| Q&A 10. | I am trying to keep live shrimp for bait. Would you please send me information on their care and feeding? I have experienced some difficulty with the shrimp eating each other. Lynn Haven, Florida |
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| One of the most serious problems encountered in keeping shrimp involves waste material and the rotting bodies of dead shrimp. If allowed to accumulate this waste causes bacterial growth, the production of toxic metabolic compounds and subsequent loss of oxygen. A good filter of spun glass and charcoal large enough to handle a complete change of tank water each twelve hours is the best way to remove fine material from the water. Dead shrimp can be removed by hand. Shrimp are tolerant of temperature changes as long as the temperature does not fall much below 60 degrees Fahrenheit or go above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. If the tank is the 50-100 gallon size the temperature probably will not fluctuate rapidly enough to harm the bait. Salt content can be kept constant - by adding salt water or fresh, using a hydrometer calibrated to measure salinity. The tank should be constructed of wood or aged concrete and be kept covered to insure darkness. Shrimp are naturally cannibalistic. For extended periods of storage - a week or longer - no more than four shrimp should be stocked to a gallon. Liver is a good diet, but care must be exercised in feeding no more than the shrimp can eat and removing uneaten food each day. |
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| Q&A 11. | I am interested in shipping fiddler crabs north for bait. How should I do this? Ft. Myers Beach, Florida |
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| Fiddler crabs will live in air for several days if kept moist. Scientists at the Institute of Marine Science, University of Miami, have had them shipped by bus from Fort Myers solid-packed in a bushel basket with better than 75% survival. For longer trips the crabs should be intermixed with moist excelsior or seaweed, which will help keep them damp and permit air to penetrate. The container should have air-access holes, but these must be either small enough so that crabs cannot escape or covered with screening. The bottom half of the container should be waterproof to prevent leakage of water or fluid from dead crabs. Florida crabs are likely to be killed by cold if shipped north in winter, so it is wise to ask the shipping agent if they can be protected from low temperatures. The agent should also be contacted for overall instructions, as the shipping container will have to comply with the carrier's regulations. Probably air freight or Railway Express is the best means of transport. |
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| Q&A 12. | What is the secret for keeping sand fleas alive in captivity, even for short periods of twenty-four to forty-eight hours? We like to use them for bait but seem unable to maintain them for more than a few hours. New Smyrna Beach, Florida |
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| One important factor is the availability of a plentiful supply of oxygen. By changing the water each day scientists at the University of Miami Institute of Marine Science have held sand fleas for periods of several weeks. No more than ten to twelve animals should be held in one bucket and the water should be kept scrupulously clean. If it is not practical to change the water daily commercial oxygen tablets (Otabs) may be used. |
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| Q&A 13. | Can you give me information on the care of shrimp which are kept in live bait tanks? Maitland, Florida |
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| Shrimp can be kept alive in bait tanks, but considerable care must be taken. Mass mortality can be caused by (1) pollution of the water by excess food or dead shrimp, (2) use of copper or brass pipes, pumps or fittings, (3) use of unweathered or contaminated tanks, and (4) lack of sufficient oxygen and/or buildup of carbon dioxide by inadequate aeration or water exchange. Standby equipment should be available for use in the event of a pump or power failure. Shrimp will eat mullet, shrimp, oysters or various kinds of lean meat. It is best to keep them slightly underfed to avoid water pollution; however, if you see signs of cannibalism, increasing the food supply would help. |
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| Q&A 14. | I would like to keep saltwater bait shrimp in a tank on a regular basis. Can you provide information on the proper care and feeding of these animals? New Smyrna Beach, Florida |
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| Saltwater bait shrimp can be kept in a tank that is constructed of glass, wood, or aged concrete. (Concrete may be coated with a bitumen water-mixed paint for waterproofing, but must be thoroughly soaked and flushed afterward.) No brass or copper pipes, pumps, or fittings can be used, as substances leached from these materials are toxic to shrimps. The tank should be shaded and have a 2 to 4-inch-deep substrate of clean sand, because some species of shrimps bury themselves. There should be a continuous supply of flowing seawater (open system) or a pumping system that completely recirculates the tank water through a spun-glass or charcoal filter every 12 hours (closed system). Temperature and salinity should be maintained at levels about those of the water from which the shrimp were taken. In a closed system, salinity may be adjusted by adding saltwater or freshwater, using a calibrated hydrometer. Animal waste, excess food, and dead shrimp must not be allowed to accumulate in the tank. Decomposition of this material promotes bacterial growth, production of toxic metabolites, and subsequent oxygen depletion. An adequate seawater circulation system should prevent build-up waste, but excess food and dead animals must be removed by hand. If the shrimp are to be kept for more than a few days, they may be fed chopped fish, shrimps, oysters, or lean meats such as liver. It is best to keep them slightly underfed; however, if there are signs of cannibalism, increasing the food supply might control this problem. With appropriate circulation and food, up to 10 shrimp can be held for each cubic foot of water in the tank. |
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| Q&A 15. | Where can I obtain information for using eels as bait? Norfolk, Virginia |
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| Methods of storing, transporting, and rigging the American eel (Anguilla rostrata) are presented in Publication 80-01, How to Use Eels as Bait, available free of charge from the UNC Sea Grant College Program, 105 1911 Building, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, North Carolina 27650. According to the ten-page UNC booklet, A. rostrata has proved successful for fishing cobia, amberjack, king mackerel, bluefish, striped bass, and flounder along the Atlantic coast of the United States. Instructions for building traps to catch eels for use as bait are given in UNC-SG-75-20, The Case of the Slippery Eel, also published by the UNC Sea Grant College Program. According to this 20-page booklet, the best baits for catching eels are fresh herring, herring roe, menhaden, or shrimp heads. |
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Rosenstiel School of Marine & Atmospheric Science Library
University of Miami, FL USA 4600 Rickenbacker Causeway, Miami, Florida 33149 Phone: 305 421 4060 Fax: 305 421 9306 E-mail: libcirc@rsmas.miami.edu |
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