| Beaches, An Overview
| 2 lectures 1 - 44
|
Beach Morphology and Sediment
- Beach morphology and nomenclature
- Composition of beach sediments
- Beach sediment grain sizes
- Grain-size sorting on beaches
- Grain abrasion and sorting by shape
- Sediment budget
| 4 lectures 45 - 75
|
| Review of pertinent aspects of uniform flow
| 2 lectures
|
Coastal water level fluctuations
- Tides
- Tide generation
- Tide prediction
- Characteristics of the tide; form number, tidal datums
- Tides in a short canal, tidal currents
- Deformation of the tide
- Tides in two dimensions; amphidromic points
- Measurement of tides
| 4 lectures 75 - 95
|
| Storm surge
| 1 lecture
|
| Sea level rise
| 1 lecture 95 - 137
|
Ocean Waves
- Wave measurements
- Definitions
- Short term wave statistics; cumulative probability,
probability density significant wave height
- Long term wave statistics; cumulative probability,
annual highest wave height, return period
- Ocean wave spectra
| 3 lectures 137 - 153
|
Wave Generation and Prediction
- Significant Wave Approach
- Wave Spectrum Approach
| 2 lectures 153 - 160
|
Linear Wave Theory
- Mathematical expressions for progressive surface waves
- Expressions for wave orbital velocities and pressure
- Dispersion relationship
- Hyperbolic functions
- Deep and shallow water waves
- Orbital motions
- Energy density
- Energy flux
| 6 lectures 160 -168
|
Wave Propagation and Transformation
- Deep water wave propagation
- Change in wave length
- Shoaling
- Refraction
- Diffraction
| 3 lectures 176-196
|
| Wave Breaking
| 1 lecture 208-217
|
Waves Reflecting from a Seawall
- Standing Wave
- Pressure on Wall
| 1 lecture
|
Nearshore Circulation
- Rip Currents
- Longshore Currents; Longuet Higgins formula
| 1 lecture 336-339
|
Long-shore Sediment Transport
- Littoral drift, littoral transport, 390-393
- Methods to determine longshore sediment transport rate
| 1 lecture 377-387
|
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport; Beach Profiles
- Closure depth; equilibrium beach profile, 285-285
- Slope of the beach face
- Summer and winter beach profiles
| 1 lecture 270-278
|
Models of Shoreline Planform and Beach Profile
- Conservation of Sediment Equation
- Application to summer and winter profiles
- Planform model; single -line model
| 2 lectures
|
The Protection of our Coast
- Beach Nourishment
- Hard Structures (bulkheads, revetments, seawalls,
breakwaters, groins)
- Design procedures in coastal engineering
| 2 lectures 497-534
|