Maria O. Bezerra and Jose M. Redondo
Dept. Fisica Aplicada, Univ. Politecnica de Catalunya
redondo@fa.upc.es
(Abstract received 06/12/2000 for session C)
ABSTRACT
We have used a novel techniques to study turbulent diffusion by means of digital processing of images taken from remote sensing and video recordings of the sea surface. The use of image analysis allows to measure variations of several decades in horizontal diffusivity values. There is an increase of diffusivity with wave height but only for large Wave Reynolds numbers. Other important factors are wind speed and tidal currents. The horizontal diffusivity shows a marked anisotropy as a function of wave height and distance from the coast. Measurements have been made near the coast in a series of field experiments done at the Trabucador beach in the Ebro Delta, south of Barcelona and in Brazil for a variety of weather conditions and there is a strong dependence of horizontal eddy diffusivities with the Wave Reynolds number as well as with the wind stress measured as the friction velocity from wind profiles measured at the coastline. These results have been published recently in Bezerra et al. 1998. Both efects are important and give several decades of variation of eddy diffusivities measured near the coastline (between 0.0001 and 2 m2/s ). Longshore currents are also important near the coast. Experiments of dye diffusion such as those performed filming the evolution of sliks allow to characterize the ranges of Kx and Ky as a function of the distance to the coast and other environmental factors such as Wave height and frequency, wind stress, tides and mean currents. References Bezerra M.O., Diez M., Medeiros C., Rodriguez A., Bahia E., Sanchez Arcilla A. and Redondo J.M., (1998), "Study on the influence of waves on coastal diffusion using image analysis", Applied Scientific Research, 59, 127-142. Rodriguez A., Sanchez-Arcilla A., Redondo J.M and C. Mosso, (1999), "Macroturbulence in the Surf Zone: Field and Laboratory Measurements", Experiments in Fluids, 26, 82-94.